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Here are some helpful hints about raising a mastiff puppy

Special Aspects of Raising A Mastiff



Even a small Mastiff is destined to be a large dog. This is something that must be taken into consideration when rearing it. As a puppy, your Mastiff should not be allowed to do anything that you would not wish your full grown Mastiff to do, such as laying on the couch. And because your puppy is going to be such a large dog, it is also a very, very good idea that it receive, at a minimum, basic obedience training. You DO NOT want a 200 lb. dog that wont listen to you; this can lead to obvious problems.
Mastiffs grow at such an astonishing rate that it is best not to force their growth with artificial vitamins and calcium supplements. A good quality dog food is all that they require. A mastiff is going to get as large as it is going to be, genetically, anyway; allowing them to grow at their own pace will give them a more stable foundation once they get there. Many breeders recommend NOT feeding a puppy chow beyond the first few months due to  to the high protein content.
During growth periods your Mastiff puppy is subject to joint injury. You will need to be esp. careful during these time to control excessive exercise. A puppy may play at his own rate but should not be encouraged to take long walks, jump obstacles, or any other exercise that will stress the joints. This is not to say that the puppy has to be confined. Just use caution and do not allow it to over exert itself. After about 18 months the growth rate has decreased and the puppy has just about reached its full stature. A Mastiff puppy remains a puppy much longer than most breeds. Even though a Mastiff is already quite large by the time it is 6 months old, it is still growing and maturing rapidly. A Mastiff does not reach its full physical or mental maturity until around 3 years of age.
You will be surprised how much a Mastiff puppy will drink. Fresh water should be kept available at all times. Drool will accumulate in the bottom of the puppy's dish. Since the pup will not drink it's own drool, the dish should be rinsed out daily.
All puppies love to chew. Mastiffs have very powerful jaws, even as a puppy. Some chew toys that are fine for other breeds are not suitable for your Mastiff. Caution should be used when choosing toys or chew bones because the pup could bite off pieces and swallow them, resulting in intestinal blockage. Mastiff puppies also have a tendency to chew, or swallow, rocks and sticks. They should be watched closely and discouraged from doing so. Crate training is a great way to keep your Mastiff puppy safe when you cannot watch him.

 
CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY

One of the first things owners teacli their puppy is not to eliminate in the house. One very effective method — the one used by most breeders and trainers — is crate training. Not only can you housetrain a puppy using a crate, but when used correctly, the dog naturally learns to look upon it as his den. He will seek out the crate when he wishes to rest undisturbed.

The crate's success as a house-training tool is simple: Puppies will not soil their sleeping area if they can possibly avoid it. But remember that a puppy needs time to play. Use the crate when you can't watch your puppy, but don't overuse it.

Crate-Training Basics: Crates come in many different styles and sizes. Choose one that will be large enough for an adult clog of your puppy's breed to lay clown, stand up and turn around in without difficulty.

Many breeders use fiberglass air­line crates. But avoid the ones with zinc nuts and bolts, as these can poi­son a clog if he should swallow them. Wire crates work well — they fold up and are fairly portable.

Put the crate in a location close to

other family members, to lessen the puppy's anxieties. Move it from the kitchen or family room to the bed­room at night so your puppy will al­ways feel a part of his new family.

Remove the puppy's collar before he goes into his crate. Then be pre­pared for his first experience with crate training — he will probably cry or  whine. Offer him a treat and close the door. Leave the room but remain nearby. At the first sign of a separa­tion response, such as barking, whin­ing or howling, intervene with a sharp "No!" Your puppy should asso­ciate the reprimand with his actions and stop. It may take four or five tries, but he will eventually settle down.

Once he is quiet, keep him in his crate for 30 to 45 minutes. If he be­gins to cry, take him outside to re­lieve himself. When he has accom­plished that, praise him, take him back inside and allow him free time outside his crate. If he starts chewing on something other than his toys, re­spond with a sharp "No!", take the object away and replace it with a toy.

After 15 to 20 minutes of free time to play, put him back in his crate for a

nap. If he cries, correct him. Because he is learning through association, con­sistency should help your puppy ac­cept being in his crate after only a few tries. When your puppy has been quiet for an hour or so, repeat the process.

Be aware that your puppy will need to eliminate directly upon waking and shortly after eating or playing. Also, a very young puppy will not be able to hold his urine all night, so be prepared to take him out during the night.

Put. your puppy on his leash imme­diately after letting him out of the crate. Rush him to the door or carry him if he is small so he can avoid an accident. And be sure he does relieve himself once he's outside.

Never place newspapers on the ; bottom of his crate, as these will only ! encourage him to eliminate there. I After you are sure your puppy isn't ;;: wetting his bed, you can give him a ,| towel or blanket, though he may be \ more comfortable without one. .I Gradually lengthen the amount of . time your puppy is allowed to play.  By the time he is five or six months old, he should be able to control himself for an hour or so between trips outside.

Saving Your Furniture: The Crate is

also useful as an aid in curbing de­structive behavior, such as uncontrolled chewing. As your puppy matures and proves himself capable of being loose in the.house, give him that privilege.

The crate itself cannot stop your puppy's need to chew when he is teething, so provide him with safe chewable toys and nylon or rawhide bones. If he continues to chew beyond the teething stage (about eight months), he is proba­bly just bored, so try to spend more time with him.

By the time he is 8 months old (a bit older for giant breeds), he should be able to walk around the house for most of the day once he has been taken outside to relieve himself. By 1 year of age, he should be mature enough to be trusted all night in the house. But keep his crate set up with the door open anyway. He will become attached to his own private "den" and will look for it.

TIPS FOR HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY
 

Always bear in mind that a dog evacuates his bowels on waking in the morning,
after a meal, and about 3 hours after a meal, especially as a puppy.

As soon as he wakes in the morning, and after every nap, take him directly outdoors
on a leash and collar to empty his bladder and/or bowel.

Take him to the same place each time, stay with him and give him 10-15 minutes to "perform".

I find that an expression associated with the action is very helpful in the teaching process.

You choose your own words - " do your chores" - "time for business" etc.

When the same phrase is repeated over a few days, the pup learns what it is you want of him very quickly. Your puppy is a very intelligent dog and eager to please you.

When he does what you've requested of him, heap praise on him and bring him back into the house immediately and give him a little reward treat.

There should be no outdoor play until he has it firmly in his mind that the outdoors is the place to go to relieve himself, and is giving you signals that he needs to go out ( and RIGHT NOW).

This may be whining, circling, sniffing at various places or going towards the door.
IT'S UP TO YOU TO LEARN TO READ HIS MESSAGES !!!

Remember that you are dealing with a baby with a small bladder, and you should expect to have accidents to clean up until he is about 6 months old.

When accidents do happen, DO NOT RUB HIS NOSE IN IT, OR HIT HIM.
A rolled up newspaper has no value in teaching a dog.

You wouldn't do that to a child or want it done to you.

YOUR PUP DOES HAVE DIGNITY TOO!!!

The dog crate will be your most valuable asset in the house-training effort.
Dogs are den animals and he will not want to soil his sleeping area if he can help it.

He will whine or bark from the crate when he needs to go out, but he will do that too
if he just wants to be with you.
This is what we call the "Puppy Con" and you'll have to learn to differentiate between them. Ignore the message and you might be cleaning up a mess!

A great wayis  to train  puppies to "ring the bell" when they need to go out.
You'll need a 3'-4' length of soft rope
Make a loop at one end that will fit over the door knob and tie a great big knobby knot on the other end, so that the puppy has something to grab on to.

Attach a group of little brass bells - available at dollar stores - above the knobby knot, so that they tinkle when the rope is shaken, then hang this "rope" over the door knob of the door going outside, so that it is low enough for the pup to reach.

When you are starting the housetraining, each time you go out the door, reach over and grab the rope so that the bells ring, and say, "time to do chores" or whatever word you have chosen.

Within a matter of hours or days, the puppy will be ringing the bells on his own

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